Construction
What is Construction?
When you pick a jacket, “construction” is really one question: what’s holding the front of the jacket in shape — and how much of it can you feel?
The short version
Every jacket needs something between the outer cloth and the lining to give the chest its shape — otherwise it would hang like a shirt. That “something” can be glued fabric (fusing), a floating hand-stitched layer (canvas), or nothing at all. The choice changes how the jacket feels on your body, how it ages, and how it moves with you.
In cross-section
The four we offer, ranked by how structured they feel
Most structured
Fully Fused
A layer of interlining is glued to the inside of the cloth across the entire jacket. It holds its shape the most consistently and is the easiest to maintain — a good everyday choice that looks sharp through a long day without needing much attention.
Balanced
Half Lined
Only the front chest panel is fused; the rest of the jacket is left soft. You get shape where it matters most — across the chest — with more breathability everywhere else. More breathable than fully fused, with structure held at the front panel.
Lightest
Unlined
No interlining at all — just the outer cloth, shaped entirely by the cut and the tailor’s hand. The lightest possible feel and the most natural drape. Best suited to linen and hot-weather fabrics where structure matters less than airflow.
Most considered
Half Canvas
A horsehair canvas is hand-stitched into the chest and floats freely beneath the outer cloth, rather than being glued to it. This is the traditional bespoke method — it moulds to your body over months of wear instead of staying rigid, and it tends to age better than fusing, which can bubble or separate over time.
Which one should you choose?
If you want something that holds its shape with minimal thought, Fully Fused is the practical choice. If you want a bit more give and breathability without losing structure at the chest, go Half Lined. If you live somewhere hot and want the lightest possible jacket, Unlined is built for that. And if you want the jacket to genuinely become yours over time — to soften and shape itself to your body the way a good leather jacket does — Half Canvas is the one worth the extra time and cost.
Still unsure? Watch the short video below, or message us — we’re always happy to talk it through before you order.
Watch the three construction types explained, side by side.
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